Let's Sew Sustainably - Newsletter #4

I hope you are well and that Spring is arriving where you live.

The articles in this issue are:

   1.   Leather That Comes With A Past

   2.  Never say Never - A Workshop Full of Surprises!

   3.  Sewing Leather on Your Home Sewing Machine - Part 3   

Leather That Comes With A Past

When we talk about sustainability in sewing, the focus is usually on making eco-friendly choices by upcycling old clothes. But when it comes to leather, there’s something deeper at play—something that goes beyond sustainability. It’s about honoring the life behind the material, cherishing its history, and giving it the chance to live on in a new and beautiful way.

Upcycled leather is unlike any other material we sew with. It carries a story—actually, two stories. First, there’s the story of the garment itself: a jacket, a pair of pants, or a skirt once imagined and carefully crafted by a designer. But before that, there was an even older story—the life that roamed pastures, fields, and plains. The leather in a discarded jacket isn’t just fabric; it’s a gift from nature, rich with its own history and resilience. Tossing it aside after just one life undervalues its incredible ability to grow more beautiful with each transformation.

Repurposing leather isn’t just practical—it’s a creative journey. It’s about seeing something old with fresh eyes and bringing it back to life in a way that feels new and meaningful. There’s something magical about turning a forgotten item into something treasured, about letting resourcefulness and artistry breathe new life into what might have been overlooked.

When I’m thrifting and I spot a well-worn leather jacket, I don’t just see an old garment—I see a story, a potential, and all of the possibilities it holds.

Sewing sustainably means sewing with intention, gratitude, and an appreciation for the materials we work with. Upcycling allows us to not only create something new but also to carry forward the beauty and craftsmanship of what came before. And that is what makes the transformation truly worthwhile.

Never Say Never: A Sewing Workshop Full of Surprises!

I’ve always said that I don’t give sewing workshops for children. It wasn’t that I didn’t think kids could learn to sew—I just assumed it didn't fit with my teaching style. But this past week, during Spring Break, I found myself leading a sewing workshop for 15 young learners, ages 8 to 18. And let me tell you, I was in for a surprise.

Most of these kids had never touched a sewing machine before. They walked into the workshop wide-eyed, some nervous, some excited, but all eager to learn. The project I chose was a simple yet practical one: a drawstring bag. I figured it would introduce them to the basics of sewing while allowing room for creativity. What I didn’t anticipate was just how quickly they would take to it.

As I demonstrated and they practiced stitching straight, I saw something wonderful happen. The kids watched attentively, their curiosity turning into determination. They asked questions and encouraged each other. The hum of the sewing machines filled the room, mixed with laughter and the occasional “Oops!” as they navigated their new skill.

Seam rippers were working overtime, just like in my adult  workshops. Every child left with a completed drawstring bag in hand, proudly carrying their creation as they walked out the door. The joy on their faces was great.

For them, sitting at a sewing machine was an entirely new experience. For me, teaching kids to sew was something I had always avoided. And yet, with opening ourselves up to something different, we all grew. They discovered the magic of making something with their own hands, and I learned that teaching youngsters can be just as rewarding—perhaps even more so—than I had imagined.

This workshop was a lesson in more than just sewing. It was a reminder that stepping outside of my comfort zone can lead to unexpected joy. I may have once said I’d never teach kids, but now I know better: Never say never.

Sewing Leather On A Home Sewing Machine - Part 3

            Don't Let Tension Give You A Headache

Setting the right tension is crucial when sewing leather. If your machine is set for fashion fabrics, you’ll need to adjust it.

Tension is primarily controlled by the upper thread, adjusted via a dial on mechanical machines or digitally on computerized ones. While the bobbin tension can also be tweaked by turning a tiny screw on the bobbin case, it’s best to leave it alone—small misadjustments can throw off all your stitches.

For leather, increase the upper thread tension to a higher number. Always test first: stitch two layers of your leather with any stabilizer you plan to use, adjusting tension gradually. Run a few test rows, increasing the tension one step at a time until your stitches are balanced.

The tension is correct when the upper and bobbin threads meet inside the seam, with no loose loops on top or underneath. 

The image below, from the manual for my 1936 Singer Featherweight, shows the same tension principles we follow today—proof that good stitching fundamentals never go out of style!

The CORRECT TENSION image shows what properly balanced stitches should look like—neatly embedded within the seam. Adjust your upper thread tension until you achieve this result.

If the upper tension is too high - Needle thread tension is too strong (tension dial set too high), the upper thread pulls the bobbin thread up through both fabric layers, causing the upper thread to sit on top.

If the upper tension is too low - Needle thread tension is too weak (tension dial set too low), the bobbin thread pulls the upper thread down, making the bobbin thread lie on top of the bottom fabric.

When sewing leather, the only way to ensure proper tension is by testing first. Run several rows  of stitching on a scrap with the same number of layers of leather and stabilizer you will be using before sewing your final project— and test, test, test!

New In My Shop

Exciting News! 🎉 The Pyramid Wristlet Purse (as pictured in my newsletter header) will soon be available as a kit in my shop! I'll update you as soon as it's in.